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Me Boosta - either you get it, or you don't...

on February 02, 2012

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How-to Guides

Nissan Skyline GTR Build
Dyno Tune Engine ECU to 400 WHP
Engine Compression Test
How-to Contest a Ticket
Oil Pump Problems
Jack Lifting & Jack Stands
Engine Removal
Turbo Swap & Engine Overhaul
Engine Assembly & Rebuild
Trick: Broken Manifold Stud Fix
Engine Installation
Twin Turbo Shuffle Surge Mod
Professional Fuel Injector Cleaner
Intercooler Sprayer
Steering Wheel Swap Upgrade
Swaybars, Understeer & Oversteer
Wire Tuck and Clean Engine Bay
Used & Second-hand Buyers Guide
Exhaust System Overhaul
Speedometer Cable Replacement
Charcoal Emissions Canister Delete
Custom Dash Cluster & Console
Blow-off Valve Rebuild & Service
Steering & Suspension Overhaul
Stop Rust with Chassis Protection
Delete HICAS 4-Wheel Steering
Rear Wiper Delete
Battery Relocation to Trunk
Ignition Coil-pack Testing
Bleeding ATTESA AWD System

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Engine Assembly
First things first; we’ll start with the HKS oil pump. (The author uses an upgraded oil pump, take a look at this very detailed technical article about: Why the Nissan Oil Pump Fails) Here are two shots of the housing and rotor cover, all cleaned up and ready to install. In addition to having much larger gears than the stock pump, the HKS pump also has ducts to bring oil to the rear of the rotors, as well. This greatly improves oil flow into the pump, reducing cavitation.

Author Note:Matt of MJR Performance sent us an emailwith details on this write up. This is not the only way to assemble the RB26 motor, there are many different thoughts and ideas, but this is just one way of doing it, as always, follow this guide at your own risk.

You can see the inlet duct for the rear of the rotors on the left. I guess it could be called a “bridge port”. There’s some scuffing from the rotors, but nothing you can feel with a fingernail. Even then, this pump has so much volume over a s…

Removing HICAS Delete 4 Wheel Steering How to Guide

The HICAS system is Nissans' attempt at a super-handling 4 wheel steering type of thing, for anyone who's driven a car with 4 wheel steering in any sort of spirited driving, you realize pretty quickly that its less of an aid and more of a downfall.
You see, driving faster than 80 km/hr the system will become active, and as you turn around a corner or make quick steering changes, the rear wheels will turn one degree in and out, for a total three degree sweep while you're driving. This system works really well if you want to change lanes really fast, but if you're more into putting the car sideways in a four-wheeled power slide, then the HICAS will become your worst enemy.

As the rear end steps out, the HICAS activates to counter the rear end slide, but because you expected the rear end to come out you've already begun to counter steer. So as you turn the wheel, the HICAS turns the rear wheels, and undoes what you've just done! Suddenly you're swerving wildly a…

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After the experience I'd had with my first Skyline, I was on the hunt for one that would more suit my level of experience. In the very back of a warehouse, covered in dust, I'd found A 1991 Nissan Skyline GTR in Pearl Metallic red, with roughly 110,000 km on the clock, the reason I chose this one in particular was because it was 100% stock. It had ZERO modifications, not a single thing! and that's such a rare thing to find in these cars, its one of the only ways you can be sure the car is in good condition. We had it up on the lift where we did the inspection, no leaks, nothing out of place, not even any dents or scratches on the frame rails where you usually see evidence of improper jack lifting.
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The compression test is often confused with a leak-down test. We always start with a compression test because if the compression across all the cylinders is above the minimum required spec, and each cylinder is within 10% deviation of all the other cylinders, then it's fair to assume the engine is in good shape.
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