Showing posts with label Build Story. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Build Story. Show all posts

Porsche 944 Engine Rebuild and Overhaul

Tim Smith, the owner of this purple 1987 Porsche 944 saw fit to breathe new life into this car when he purchased it, the state of affairs both inside the car and engine area were less than desirable. But, by the time he was done with it, she looked like a brand new car again.

Read Tim's build story below and you'll be amazed at the transformation and attention to detail on this Porsche 944.
1987 Porsche 944 Original
My 944 when the day I bought it.

1987 Porsche 944 Original side
1987 Porsche 944 Original
1987 Porsche 944 Original Front
1987 Porsche 944 Original Rear
First pulled into the garage for timing belt/rollers/head gasket and misc other engine repairs/maintenance.
Porsche 944 Maintenance
Porsche 944 hood open
The interior exactly as I got it. Cracked dash, ripped seats, dirty carpets, etc...

Ultima GTR Build

Ultima GTR Race Car Build Frame Wheels Engine

Take a look at The Ultima GTR, talk about attention to detail, a forum post documenting a build thread of one of these beauties, details and fantastic work.
Ultima GTR Race Car Flyer Specs

Ultima GTR Race Car Black Body Headlights

Ultima GTR Race Car Black Tube Frame Roll Bar Cage

Honda Civic Autocross and 230 WHP

Modified Honda Civic Custom

Last year at one of our Thursday Night Meets at Montréals' Orange Julep I came across one Mr. Hugo, owner of a very sharp looking Honda Civic. I thought it had a little more to it then what meets the eye so I asked for a few more details... Hugo began listing off the Civic Spec List and we conversed back and forth between French and English where I began to learn more and more about the time and effort it takes to make a truly formidable Autocross vehicle, and here's a bit of that conversation:
Modified Honda Civic Custom

I started by asking when Hugo had bought the car?
I bought the car in 2002, it was completely stock. This is a Special Edition which in 2002 had 27000 km on the clock, so only one winter with the previous driver.
J'ai acheté l'auto en 2002, elle était complètement d'origine. C'est une Spécial Édition qui avait en 2002 27000km au compteur, donc un seul hiver.

Modified Honda Civic Custom

Hugo then went on to tell me a bit about the history of the car...
From 2003 to 2005, the car had suspension done (Koni yellow) with springs (race Newspeed), a set of sway bars from Suspension Technique and finally I converted the drum brakes to disc brakes at the rear. In 2005, the car had 55000 km on the stock engine and the 1.6 liter had been replaced by a 1.8 liter engine from Japan (JDM B18C Type R).
De 2003 à 2005, l'auto avait une suspension (koni yellow) avec spring (newspeed race spring), un ensemble de sway-bar de Suspension Technique et j’ai réalisé la conversion de freins à tambours pour freins à disque à l’arrière.En 2005, l'auto avait 55000 km et le moteur d'origine 1,6 litres a été remplacé par un moteur 1.8 litres en provenance du japon (B18C JDM Type R).

interior Modified Honda Civic Custom

From 2005 to 2008, all parts from an OEM EK9 Civic Type R had been purchased to be installed on the vehicle. That is to say the seats, carpet, cluster, door trim, rear spoiler, front and rear lip, brakes system, CTR wheels, the front grille and front headlights. In 2008, I repainted the vehicle to fix stone chips and the new aesthetic components (mirror, and lip spoiler). In 2009, major changes were made; I replaced the 1.8 liter Type R engine with a 2.0-liter type R (JDM K20A Type R). The suspension was replaced with TEIN N1, the Type R calipers had been replaced by SPOON 4 pistons, all bushings, ball joint and tie-rods were replaced. Magnaflow exhaust line was replaced by RS * R and Mugen Twin Loop.
De 2005 à 2008, toutes les pièces OEM d'une Civic type R EK9 on été acheté pour être installé sur le véhicule. C’est-à-dire les sièges, tapis, console centrale, cluster, trim de porte, aileron arrière, lip avant et arrière, système de freinage, roues, ainsi que la grille avant et les lumières. En 2008, j’ai repeint le véhicule pour éliminé les stone chip et pour peinturer les nouvelles composantes esthétiques (miroir, lip et aileron)En 2009, des changements majeurs ont été réalisé, j’ai remplacé le moteur 1,8 litres type R par un moteur 2,0 litres type R (K20a JDM Type R). La suspension a été remplacé par Tein N1, les caliper Type R ont été remplacé par des SPOON 4 pistons, les bushings, ball joint and tie-rods ont été remplacé. La ligne d’exhaust Magnaflow a été remplacée par RS*R et Mugen Twin Loop.
Honda Civic Engine Type R Modified

Rather impressed with the level of work, quality and attention to details, I asked which shop he's been using for his work?
I always made ​​my changes by myself, except when installing the first engine in 2005. Now the car has 120000km, no winter, always in heated garage and a full list of changes follows this article.
J'ai toujours effectué mes modifications par moi-même, sauf lors de l'installation du premier moteur en 2005. Maintenant, l’auto a 120000km, aucun hiver, toujours dans un garage chauffé et la liste complète des modifications suit le présent article
Modified Honda Civic Type R Engine

Are you sponsored by anyone?
I've never had private sponsors. However, I am a member of CADL (Club Des Laurentides Autoslalom) that this association has sponsors and allows competitors to obtain the best deal on parts.
Je n’ai jamais eu de commanditaires privés. Cependant, je suis membre du CADL (Club Autoslalom Des Laurentides) qui cette association possède des commanditaires et permettent aux compétiteurs d’obtenir des meilleurs pris sur des pièces.

Modified Honda Civic Custom

What events do you compete in?
So far, I am a member of CADL since 2003 and have always been ranked in the top three positions.
Jusqu’à présent, je suis membre du CADL depuis 2003 et j’ai toujours été classé dans les trois premières positions.

Modified Honda Civic Custom carbon

With this level of modification, are you still driving the car on the street?
Yes, I drive the car on the road. However the car isn't really comfortable. The suspension is so stiff, we're talking about 900 lbs/In for back and 700 lbs/In springs for the front. In addition to the stiff suspension, tires are very wide (225) which creates additional resistance on the wheel and the car tries to follow the defects of the road. Finally, I made a special alignment for autocross to handle better at very high speeds. Indeed, the car is toe-out at back. Finally, the car is noisy and no radio. So in reality the car is only used for autocross, but still legal to drive on the roads.
Oui, je conduis l’auto sur la route. Cependant l’auto n’est vraiment confortable. La suspension est tellement rigide, on parle de 900 lbs / in pour en arrière et 700 lbs/in pour les ressorts en avant. En plus de cette suspension rigide, les pneus sont très large (225) ce qui crée une résistance supplémentaire sur le volant et l’auto cherche à suivre les défauts de la route. Finalement, j’ai fait un alignement spécialement pour l’Autoslalom rendant l’auto installe à très grande vitesse. En effet, l’auto est two-out à l’arrière. Finalement, l’auto est bruyante et sans radio. Donc, en réalité l’auto ne sert que pour l’Autoslalom, mais toujours légal pour circuler sur les routes.
Modified Honda Civic Custom

So how does road driving this beast compare to letting her loose on the track?
The major difference is, it’s virtually impossible to appreciate the car on the road because of various reasons listed above. I think with my experience in cars tuning, you can’t choose more vocations for your car and not have to make some trade-offs. A car for the road is not a track car; a show car is not a daily drive car.
La différence est majeure, il est pratiquement impossible d’apprécier l’auto sur la route à cause des différentes raisons énumérées plus haut. À mon avis, avec l’expérience que j’ai en tuning automobile, il est impossible de choisir plusieurs vocations à l’auto et les compromis n’existent pas. Une voiture pour les routes n’est pas une voiture de pistes, une voiture d’exposition n’est pas une voiture daily drive.

Recaro Modified Honda Civic Custom

Gotta ask... Have you ever had any accidents on the track/street with this car?
On the track I've had a few moments of loss-of-control, but fortunately never collided with anything solid. Such losses of control are normal in autocross because the track is designed to validate a driver's agility and limit speeds making the event accessible to all. So to ensure this requirement, several turns are required and ensure that the driver must be agile and determined between braking and acceleration.
Sur la piste j'ai fait plusieurs perte de contrôle, mais sans toute fois frappé un objet. Ces pertes de contrôle sont normales en Autoslalom parce que la piste est conçue pour valider l'agilité du conducteur et limiter les grandes vitesses rendant les événements accessibles à tous. Donc, pour assurer cette exigence, plusieurs virages sont requis et font en sorte que le conducteur doit être agile et dosé entre freinage et accélération.

Modified Honda Civic Custom

So, what does the future hold for your Civic?
I would like to convert the 2.0 liter K20 engine for a 2.4 liter K24. I am still in a dilemma if I make this conversion in a rather moderate or aggressive way. This dilemma is directly related to the compression ratio and the type of gasoline. I will if I use a moderate rate of compression 12.5: 1 with gasoline with an octane rating of 94 and I will be aggressive if I use a compression rate of 13, 5: 1 with gasoline with an octane rating of 105. You will understand that the cost of these two scenarios is the same, only the gasoline will cost more than double.
J’aimerais convertir le moteur K20 2,0litres pour un K24 2,4 litres. Je suis encore en dilemme si j’effectue cette conversion de façon modéré ou plutôt agressif. Ce dilemme est directement en lien avec le taux de compression et le type d’essence. Je serai modéré si j’utilise un taux compression 12,5 :1 avec de l’essence ayant un indice d’octane de 94 et je serai agressif si j’utilise un taux compression de 13 ,5 :1 avec de l’essence ayant un indice d’octane de 105. Vous comprendrez que le coût du de ces deux scénarios est le même, seul l’essence coûtera plus du double.

Best of luck Hugo, congratulations on the properly done Civic.
Complete Spec list here

Engine ECU Tuning a GTR to 400 Horse Power

ECU Engine Tuning Nissan Skyline GTR on Dyno

(This is the continuation of my ongoing Build story) I dropped the car off at ACSP in Laval last night to give the tuner (Pat) enough time at his own pace to take care of the little things that needed to be done before we could tune, and he agreed to call me up when it was ready for the dyno so I could be there to setup the boost controller and watch the whole thing. Check out this video, its sort of an intro clip to the story:

During the day, Pat rewired my Fuel pump with a new relay to supply 13 Volts constantly to the pump. This helps to make sure fuel will always be where it needs to be, and helps to prevent against a short in the old wiring harness for the fuel pump.

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Then he had to weld in a bung for his Wide-band O2 sensor, socket my ECU to accept the new tune and lastly install the bigger 660 cc Fuel Injectors, which were just cleaned and flow tested but were apparently quite difficult to get inside the oem fuel rail, but he managed.

Mustang Dynamometer Rolling Road
Mustang Dynamometer Rolling Road
The Dyno at ACSP is a Mustang Dyno, one of the lowest reading dyno's on the market. This is because the power is recorded by whats being delivered through the tires, and onto the "rolling road". The Mustang Dyno gives the most accurate real world reading of power and torque but the downside is your numbers end up looking a little conservative compared to other dyno's that read at the hubs, which always read significantly higher because there is no rolling inertia from the wheels, and zero slipping.

On the Mustang Dyno there's the possibility that the wheels will slip sometimes on the rollers and you can see blips in the torque and power curve, but these are easy to spot as they will both dip sharply at the exact same time, and only for a brief second until the wheels get traction again.
Large cooling fan for Intercooler Radiator while Tuning the Engine
Large cooling fan for Intercooler Radiator while Tuning the Engine
He put the car in position, and locked it down with chains and straps, put the giant blower fan in front of the car so that air would still be moving through the intercooler and radiator and got started with programming the ECU.
Chain lock and straps holding down car during engine dyno tuning
Chain lock and straps holding down car during engine dyno tuning
First thing to do was have a quick check through the systems and make sure everything was all good. Given the all clear from diagnostics he started by adjusting for the bigger fuel injectors, with a few light pulls at the lowest possible boost setting of 15 PSI the car was producing an astonishing 320 wheel horse power! (whp). He was a little shocked at how much power it could put down with so little tuning effort, so he got deeper into it, adjusting the fuel and timing maps from A to Z, he checked every cell and made sure it was a Super safe tune.
Remapping the ECU during Dyno Session
Remapping the ECU during Dyno Session

I made it clear from the beginning that my goal was not power out right, but more reliability. What good is power if you blow the engine in a week! So he continued to refine the maps and eventually got up to 360 whp in 3rd gear, we were all amazed that 15 PSI was able to hit such good power numbers, and the power curve was smooth as hell too! If you like the customer interior, take a look at this Article on how I swapped to R34 Racing Seats, Momo Racing Wheel, Defi Gauges and Controller, HKS Turbo Timer, Blitz Dual SBC Boost Controller and a unique Veilside 340 km/h speedo. He had tuned a stock GTR with mods similar to mine that morning, except running oem turbos and at the same boost level that car was making 20 whp less, so thats the difference the 2860R-5's make at 15 PSI, 20 whp.
He explained to me that we dyno tune in third gear because it provides the best resolution, he also explained a little bit about pulling the ignition timing some ten degrees or so, but a lot of the technical jargon is lost on me at this point.
Nissan Skyline GTR on Mustang Dyno 400 WHP
Nissan Skyline GTR on Mustang Dyno 400 WHP
If you like the sound of that HKS Hi Power Exhaust system and wondered what it looks like underneath, have a look at this Article on Overhauling the Exhaust System, Turbo Outlets, Down-pipe, Decat, Cat-Back. So, with the low boost setting complete it was time to raise it up to the target max boost setting we planned of 18 PSI, after some fiddling around with the Blitz SBC-R we managed to land exactly at 18 pounds, he did a few pulls in third and ironed out the kinks in the maps, we then let the car cool down for a few minutes before seeing how much power it could put down.
Tuning the ECU on Laptop on the Rolling Road Dyno
Tuning the ECU on Laptop on the Rolling Road Dyno
We went up to fourth gear this time because fourth has a direct one to one (1:1) gearing ratio so it gives the most accurate power output readings, and since the tuning was essentially done, it was now time to see what this thing could really do! we watched the numbers climb just North of 400 whp before we maxed out the stock air flow meters at 6,750 RPM, damn we were all a little disappointed because this engine just wanted more! and it was willing to give us more too! we just ran out of room on the MAFs. Oh well the point was made, and the tuning complete. Pat figures that if we didn't hit the MAF limit so soon, we would have seen a max power output of 415 whp, which is an immense amount of power.
So, because I wanted a print out with a nice graph, we went back into third gear and he did one big easy pull and laid down 390 whp with 303 ft-lbs of torque on a relatively smooth curve, and he reminded me again that these numbers are really conservative and don't really mean a whole lot compared to other Dynos.
390 whp Dyno Chart Graph
390 whp Dyno Chart Graph
He handed me the keys and my buddy Mitch (who'd stopped by to say hello) and I went for a few quick pulls up and down the street. Mitch's car develops north of 500 whp and is a monstrous machine so he was warning me about being careful when driving this car until I get used to the new power level. Essentially it's more than double the power I've been used to handling so far.

In first gear, I let out the clutch and we were away... boost comes in pretty early and hits full near 4,650 RPM. At 1.2 Bars (18 PSI) in first gear, theres not much of anything left in my brain, sheer and utter violence as the car accelerates into oblivion, its only describable as warp speed! before I knew it I was already at 7,600 RPM!! Time to shift, Drop it into to second and the madness begins all over again, all the way up to 7,800 RPM this time we're already doing well over 120 km/hr!! Into third gear now its just mind boggling, its so hard to process all the things around you at that kind of speed, the G-force from acceleration makes it feel like theres an elephant sitting on your chest, and I let off the throttle as we approached the end of the road.

Quickly turned the car around and went even harder back down the street, we stopped back at the shop and Mitch and I were both just sort of laughing nervously, its a Lot of power, and will definitely need some time and practice to get used to.
Feeling very satisfied that all our hard work had paid off, and the tune was perfect, I shook hands with Pat, thanked him for a job well done and parted ways.

First day of Driving my car this year

First I'd like to mention that we've been awarded the "Top Auto Blog" award, from Save Today Auto Insurance, Thanks for recognizing our place in the automotive community.

Last night the car went in to Autoworx to cover a few things and take it out of storage for the summer, which is fast approaching. But before dropping the car off I had another friend over during the day helping me to finish the new wiring for the speakers, and install the pioneer radio. We got it finished in time and I must say I'm really starting to smile from the way the center console is looking, It's so very close to being done. I haven't snapped any pics of it yet, but I will post them as soon as I do.

Anyways, we dropped the car off at Autoworx, and I left them a "short" list of

Nissan Skyline R32 GTR Time Attack Build Story with Track Scotland

Car when bought....

Stock Original Gun Metal Grey Nissan Skyline

Nissan Skyline Engine

Skyline Trunk Subs and Amp

Day 2 - De Ned'ed

Further Weight Savings...

New Bits and Bobs...

Nissan Brake Master Cylinder Stopper

Nissan Skyline ECU

Skylab TSC Traction Controller

November 27, 2006
here are some pics of the track car we are building for 2007. Its still fairly standard for now, but getting better quickly.

spec so far (not all fitted yet..)

  • Apexi intakes 
  • Greddy elbows 
  • Greddy hardpipes 
  • Greddy rad cooler platey thing 
  • Mines ECU 
  • Mocal 16row oil cooler 
  • Mocal remote filter 
  • brake MS stopper 
  • ds3000 pads 
  • full cage with diagonals and door bars 
  • front/rear strut braces 
  • 17x9 light weight alloys 
  • 4x yoko A005 slicks + 2 dunlops 
  • Skylab TSC Evo torque controller thing 
  • Nismo rear arms 
  • uprated down pipe & front pipe, big bore exhaust 
  • Blitz SBC-iD III boost controller 
  • Tomei sump baffle 
  • Headlight duct 
  • N1 bumper vents 

bits coming from out going track car...

lightweight corbeau buckets
3" 6pt harnesses
OMP Extinguisher

Driver Commentary (Fiona): We only got it about 2 months or so ago. 
Have had it on a couple of track days at knockhill since then...
plan on doing a lot of work on it over the winter so that it will be ready for next year.

December 14, 2006
Fee fitted the new TSC evo torque splitter thingy

The Tomei sump baffle and Blitz SBC-iD should also be round at the postoffice waiting to be collected! 

We'll make a start on the roll cage next week when i'm home

December 16, 2006
sump baffle plate and gates. boost controller...

December 18, 2006...
turbos paid for
Garrett GT2860R (GT28R) Turbo - 360HP

This Garrett GT2860R turbocharger features:

Garrett Ball Bearing CHRA
Oil & Water-cooled Bearing System
T25 Turbine Inlet Flange with threaded bolt holes instead of traditional through holes
Turbine housing has a unique "compact" 5-bolt outlet that is not interchangeable with traditional T25 5-bolt outlets
Turbine housing is cast from high-nickel "Ni-Resist" material for extreme applications
Turbine wheel is cast from "Inconel" material for extreme applications
Direct replacement upgrade turbocharger for GT2556R (702987-7) used on Nissan Skyline R34 GT-R
Great size for applications with packaging constraints
Optional Turbine housing 0.64 or 0.86
This Garrett GT2860R turbocharger is ideal for smaller displacement engines ranging from 1.8L - 2.7L and will make from 250 up to 360 horsepower. 

December 20, 2006...
ECU Swap:

simple 5min job.... car runs a bit smoother now,

Fitting the boost controller...
wasnt to bad fitting the Blitz SBC-iD either. An easy morning, most of which was just faffing round to get in at stuff, feed wires through gromits etc. 

Need to look into shortening the 'IN' side of the unit. ATM i have it running from the stock solenoid position down round the front of the engine above the rad then back to the unit by the air filters. Seem to be getting spikes. For example i have ch4 set to 5 Gain, 55 ratio and it holds 0.98 bar perfectly when boosted from low revs, nicely. BUT when you hoof it in 3rd at 5krpm it peaks upto about 1.05+ before settling at 0.98.
Think shortening it will help.

Still need to work out all the functions but it's basicaly the same unit i had in the Supra and R33 Skyline.

January 18, 2007..Cage Test Fitting

January 19, 2007...
Garret GT2860-5 turbos arrived this morning, well i had to go to some PO to get them.

Shipped from the US for 900.... not bad eh

good for about 340bhp each at high boost (1.6bar or something i'd think)

I'll be running them at 1.2bar for now, well once fitted and fueling dependant of course. My Mines ECU and current pump/injectors should be good for 1.2bar. May pop a bigger pump in first anyway.
Skyline Upgraded Turbochargers

January 22, 2007... fitted the first bucket. 
Was a bit on a PITA getting it in with out griding off the orig seat mout points, sothing i didnt want to do
The corbeau seats are quite high, so had to try and keep the mounts/sliders low.

I had to alter the slider handle and the just reversed it to get the mounts in snug behinf the cross beam on the floor.

Fitted the eye bolts for the harnesses too

January 23, 2007... did some body and electrical work today

Hacked the front bumper to fit the N1 bumper vents. Will need to grind the crash bar for them to fit properly tomorrow.

Fixed the front headlights. When i got the car the drivers side main beam would sometimes work. It stopped working all together, along with the full beam constant (full beam flash worked). Ruled out bulb problems, then just rewired the fucker.

January 24, 2007...
grinded the crash bar, fitted and bonded vents in. May have to rebond one as it hasnt seemed to have taken

Fitted new front wipers to get rid of the chrome uns...

Refurbed/cleaned the two front 4 pots and fitted Ferrodo DS3000 pads. Will need to bleed the brakes at the weekend though as the brake fulid reservoir cap is a daft size not supplied with Gunson easy bleed. Well i never checked, but it looks daft


January 25, 2007...
refurbed/cleaned the rear 2pots today. They were pretty manky!

Half bled (got fluid to the bleed nipples) ready for bleeding it on sat. Saves a bit of time and means the car has some brakes for now.

Took the car home to test the cage/seat/helmet situation. Not bad, i seem to fit fine, so the seat may stay

Oh... and the brakes unbedded, not bled properly, very long pedal travel ..... already feel better than they did

Think it just had glazed pads on before.

February 5, 2007... suspension has arrived...

February 7, 2007... Fitting the new Suspension...

thats the rears in now too 

its much much better now. Haven't adjusted heights etc properly yet, just put them on at what i thought might be ok. Still the fit the EDFC motors and head units.... do that tomorrow maybe

compression EDFC's fitted... bit of a fiddly pain in the boobies, but done. 
Also have the 2nd unit mounted, and wired. Just need to mount the motors on the reservoirs 

fitted the two EDFC's for front rebound (on remote reservoirs), and put the loom in place for the rears. Just need to mount the rears on the adjusters then that's it 

Skyline with Tein EDFC Control

Slicks fitted to rims

found a wee bit of rust in the foot-well confuzled The outer sill is solid, but the floor has been pushed up where it looks like the car has been jacked up on the std lip jacking points.... with a trolley jack i presume  Think the crease has just got rusty over time. Patched it up, stripped the rest of the sound deadening out from the drivers side and painted black for now. 

changed the drivers seat mount Smile 

FROM - My home made bingo bodge 
TO - Driftworks low mount - £119 :! 

Seat does sit a lot lower though, and slides a bit easier than my makeshift one Laughing 

Also stripped the floor behind the seat and painted it too. 

fitted the wheels... still having a problem with one rim. Tried 2 diff yoko slicks on them but still its got a slow puncture :/ Wheels fit well

stripped the other front side too... and found another rust patch in the same jacking point spot. Outer sill was solid again... bizzare.

New Head, Inlet, Exhaust and throttle bodies gaskets arrived from Japan

more new bits n bobs..

Project Mu front discs.... gay colour....
APP front and rear braided steel brake lines 

Tomei rod bolts 

Hmmmm :O not too healthy ex-passenger side front disc. They were wrecked at my last knockhill outing, but i just thought they were warped. They were not cracked after that, but must have just put them over the edge on sunday with the cold 1/4mile braking. 

new uprated NISMO oil pump 

feckin rust bucket.....

Saw a rust bubble on the bottom of the drivers side rear arch..... gave it a scrape. Wasnt too solid so started cutting it back to goo metal. It looks like a previous attempt at a repair or rust.... found a bit of filler and gauze with lots of sand in the bottom of the arch Mad

welded in new sections ( as best i can) 

final piece of the pie arrived this morning! Great timing as the car goes into the garage tomorrow Laughing HKS turbine fitting kit. Gaskets, bolts, washers etc... 

New side mount for the psgr bucket Will fix it with no runners, low and near the centre of the car..... as possible 

4 new (to me) sticky slickiesselling the 4 yoko's as i feel they are a bit narrow.... so now have 6 of the dunlops

Engine is now out.... with suspected piston slap being the cause of some of the weird bottom end noise.... not the bearings... SO... 6x OS Giken pistons added to the build :/ 
engine on the floor 
Will be getting re-bored in the next few days, block cleaned up and painted... 
Added an adjustable FPR to the build too. 

Just trying to figure out the fueling now :/ 
either 280lph pump, fpr, 700cc injectors 
whole hog overkill type thing 
2 intank 280lph pumps... feeding duel feed fuel rails, 1000cc injectors, fpr 
280lph in tank pump feeding swirl pop with 2 external pumps feeding rail, fpr, 1000cc injecotors 
Spec of car now Laughing RB26DETT
Tomei layered metal head gasket (1.2mm)
86.5 OS Giken forged pistons
Tomei rod bolts
Tomei sump baffle
Tomei metal gaskets
HKS turbo gaskets and fittings
2x Garret GT2860-5's
XS power downpipes
Fujitsubo Giken exhaust
Apexi intakes (2)
Blitz SBC-iD boost control
Skylab TSC Evo (Attessa adjusting sys)


TEIN Circuit Master package
2x EDFC Units
Nismo Rear arms


APP braided lines
Project Mu SCR Discs
Ferrodo DS3000 pads
5.1 fluid


2x Corbeau light weight buckets
2x 6 point 3" Sabelt harnesses
Cusco 6pt cage

Wheels n tyres

OE alloys with rubber bands
17" Kai Office Modia's with dunlop slicks.... the car back now.... its going to be interesting for Fee in the next few weeks 

She'll have to... 

1: finish the run in 
2: Change oil/filter 
3: work out new settings for boost controller 
4: fit pas seat 

all before she gets some tuition at knockhill in it
Here are some pics from tonight.... old turbos..... 1 exhaust wheel looks quite oily... 

some more weight saving.... aircon pump. Will remove the AC rad next time the bumpers off. Will be off soon to locate the oil cooler 

gave it a wee wash.... :/ was filthy 

and the run in miles so far..... PAINFULL

near 900 miles done now.... 

started on the oil cooler this morning.... didnt have time to do much, but its a start. 

Thats the mocal cooler just fitted in place and not plummed in. I'll get the bumper off again and tidy it all up whilst fitting the remote filter and plumbing in the cooler. 

Oil was changed, out with the run -in oil, in with the fresh 10w60. 

Boost/Fueling was checked with a wideband.... Now boosting to 1.2 bar safely with Mines ECU and Tomei FPR as the only fueling mods. AFMS and injectors are standard.

its got a bad crunch going into 4th (up from 3rd and down from 5th) at high rpm. Can mask it with thicker gb oil, but it's not going to fix itself. I'm looking at around 800 for a rebuild using newer/stronger nissan internals or 1k+ for OS giken gearkit (pretty sure thats only 1-3 though and nissan 4/5) 

Other option... the good one.... the expensive one OS Giken 6speed sequential.... 5500 for the gearbox alone :O 

standard nissan gears 'in my opinion' arent going to last long.... so really need to uprate :/

here are some previews of the fuel system from RIPS...  Its not finished yet, will be stripped and polished up etc. 

polished and ready to go now

just waiting for the bonnet decal to be made then it will be shipped

Thats all the sound deadening removed from the passenger side, sanded and painted... 

Just the back to do now

plugs changed 

Fuel pumps, filters and swirl pot arrived along with RIPS Racing bonnet decal thing. 

Also ordered 800cc SARD twinhole injectors x6
leaky diff (fuzzy pics!) 

What a pin in the tits the filler plug was No room to get a ratchet in... feckin rear steering rack :grr: 


then back onto the oil cooler... 

1 question.... 

SR1/2----------------4-------1/2 BSP SEALING RING 

What do they seal? i.e where do they go? 

Between the remote filet/sandwhich plate? And block/take off? 

Or somewhere else? 


its all done bar actually plumbing it in. All the hoses are made up bar the end of one! Missing a push on fitting grrr 

Also a wee bit more weight reduction.... removed more of the AC system. Rad out, and fan thing. also trial fitted the headlight vent. OMG what a shit fit EBAY special! Dont buy!!! 

From FEE: right..... busy week this week.... 

Need to finish the oil cooler - the last connection is here now so nothing holding it back. 
I need to somehow batter the locking nuts off, and get new ones. The slicks are stuck on at the moment
Just ordered new discs.... DBA 4000's.... the project Mu SCR's didnt last too well. They were bedded in, and felt damn good for about 4 trackdays. Feel badly warped now though. Maybe should have gone SCR Pro..... Really need to up the caliper and disc size though.. Its a big car to constantly stop
Rear diff - feels fecked. Coming out of the hairpin it cant get power down. Feels like its just spinning the inside wheel.

Adam - parp... 

Locking nuts 'removed' - sourced 4 OE nuts. 

Oil Cooler finally plumbed in, and given a short test (not up to temp for sandwhich plate to open though) 

Front bumper 'edited' for more cooling to oil cooler. 
New light vent fitted. Much Much better fit, and had some mesh to stop and pigeons getting sucked in

Lowered the front suspension about 15mm (will raise the rear a touch tomorrow). 

see height difference here

Oil Changed 

Checked out the front brakes... the discs dont look to have deposits of pads from hot stops. The dont appear to have even wear from the pad though. The discs appreared to become warped halfway through the dreadnaught night, getting worse as time went by. Causes? I dont think i've run them too hot?! I try not to keep my foot on the brakes when hot etc. They were bedded in. 

I have new DBA4000's on the way, but i'll remove the MU's and get them skimmed as a spare set. 

New DBA 4000 slotted discs arrived today. Good service from RB Motorsport, next dat delivery. They look less gay than the mangled MU's, and have funky temp indicators on them. 3 different strips that changed colour at certain temps. 

Trying to work out what happened to the old ones as they are showing very little wear, and lasted about 4 trackdays Laughing There is only 1 spot which looks like the result of a hot pad being stuck on. Maybe i just didnt bed them in enough/get them through enough high enough heat cycles. 

New ones on

gave the oil cooler a long test today in quite warm weather.... 

the plate seems to open around 65-70 which is lower than i though it would be (any ideas what is supposed to be set at?) 

Overall oil temps whilst driving round town etc (reading diff's off std gauge before and after) are down by about 10deg. From just under 90, to just under 80, maybe more liek just over 70. 

Out on the road with some spirited driving - from around 100-110 down to about 88-90. 

Seems to be working well then. Will test it on track tomorrow night. Could only get about 4-5 laps in before the gauges was starting to go north of 110 on Monday eve 

been a bit busy with house moving and decorating... 

The car is in getting a head rebuild. Worn valve guides. 

Battery tray bought - lightweight alloys cage to fit battery behind pas seat. 
New cables and cut off switch etc bought 
Catch Tank bought New wheels and Toyo888's bought

Carbon Fiber Wing

White Nissan Skyline Race car